A Walk in Nizza

Exploring history, food, and culture between the Belbo river and the vineyard hills of Monferrato

August 11, 2016
by Dave
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A Walk in Nizza: Deep mapping the Belbo Valley

The blog is live, and I feel I should do an inauguration post.

priryerthIn the early ’90 I read abook by American author William Least Heat Moon, whose Blue Highways, a Journey into America I had loved as a first-year university student.
The new book was called PrairyErth (A Deep Map) and it was something really different.
If the early book was an exploration of America along secondary roads and off-beat tracks, PrairyErth was an exploration of a very small, limited portion of the territory – but it was an in depth exploration.
Using a set of survey maps, William Least Heath Moon explored every inch of a corner of Kansas called Flint Hills, looking at every detail of the landscape, of the ecology, of the history and society.
That was the idea behind the deep map in the title: that you can take a not-particularly-exciting, everyday place and by looking close enough discover it’s actually interesting, exciting, unique.

The expression deep map I later discovered, caught on, and is currently used to describe an integrated approach to the study of geography and social history – how landscape and inhabitants interact and shape each other. Continue Reading →

August 9, 2016
by Dave
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A Walk in Nizza: Cars

I went for a walk in Nizza, tonight – with my old Canon in tow to take advantage of the golden hour.
The evening was very pleasant, a cool breeze giving the city relief from the heat and humidity of these early August days, and given the time – between 8 and 9 pm – the streets were clear of people, everybody being somewhere having dinner, or getting ready to go out for dinner.
I took some photos and explored a few corners of the town.
There’s a lot of gorgeous views that, as the sun disappears beyond the horizon, acquire a sort of magical light.

neon

There’s only one problem: there are cars everywhere.
This is a big problem all over Italy – a country that over fifty years slowly but steadily dismantled the public transport system to favor the development of highways and the sales of cars.
In a (mostly) beautiful place like Nizza, the ubiquitous presence of cars is particularly painful.
Cars crowd the cozy Piazza delle Erbe, where the vegetable market is held every Friday.

piazza delle erbe, agosto

Cars crowd the vast Piazza Garibaldi, hiding from view the Foro Boario (the cattle market).
Hopefully, next week many Nicese will take a week off on vacation.
It will be great, finally seeing the town without its shroud of metal and wheels.

 

August 9, 2016
by Dave
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Good Food: Coniglio al Sivé (Braised Rabbit)

The staple of village celebrations in Castelnuovo Belbo, the village where I live, is rabbit, often served with polenta. A classic peasant’s dish, and particularly welcome in autumn, rabbit comes with a history of small homesteading or all-out poaching. Today you can buy rabbits at the butcher’s, but the old people say it does not taste as good as a poached rabbit.

coniglio al sivé

One of the classic recipes for rabbit (poached or otherwise) is the Coniglio al Sivé, a braised rabbit dish that requires some preparation (about two days) and which goes more or less like this: Continue Reading →